Tap Reseating

I have been routinely re-seating taps that require new washers, it make a huge amount of difference to the way the tap works - in extreme cases I have know the scarring of the mating flange to be so deep that no amount of pressure with a new washer will stop the tap dripping, not so with re-seating.

The tool costs about £10 and being largely plastic, is small and light enough to just lurk at the bottom of the tool box.

I personally think all handymen should carry one as part of their standard kit.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/monument-tools-tap-reseating-tool/89487

Here is the juicy bit:

Old Fashioned tap washers. These are fitted into the type of tap that you need to turn more than a ¼ turn to open and close.

They consist of a rubber disc (washer) fitted to the end of a brass screw that forms the business end inside the tap fixed to the end of the operating handle that you turn. The washer works by pressing down on the flat flange opening to the water inlet, closing off the flow of water as it does so.

Many people think that to cure a dripping tap, just needs the washer to be replaced, as the rubber degrades over time and no longer works properly. But this is often only part of the problem.

The flat flange that the washer presses against with wear gets scratched and pitted making it harder and harder to get an effective seal. If the washer alone is replaced, you still need to tighten the tap handle hard enough to deal with the other problem. 

Using a "Tap Reseating tools" it is usually very easy to clean off the surface of this flange and it can be done at the same time as changing the washer and takes very little extra time. 

Of course this process only applies to taps fitted with rubber washers. Many more modern taps are fitted with ceramic cartridges - you can easily spot the difference as the handle will only turn ¼ of a turn form full off to full on and it will come to a hard positive stop at each end of the ¼ rotation. Dripping problems from this type of tap require the whole cartridge to be replaced, which in some instance is easy and relatively cheap, in others more complex and often more expensive. The problem is that it is very hard to tell the exact type of cartridge without taking the tap apart and often need ordering from specialist suppliers, which then needs a second visit to fit. 

However there is a cheaper alternative for straight forward basin and bath taps. One tap manufacturer makes a special kit that replaces the working parts of the tap with new - which also includes the handle. Unfortunately this  does not make this a practical solution in a number of situations

In addition:

Silver Saint Stan has developed his own technique for repairing quarter-turn cartridges that have developed a drip. Stan assures me that his method has never let him down.

1. Shut off the water supply to the taps.
2. Remove the faulty 1/4 turn valve from the tap body.
3. Place the valve in a container of appliance descaler for 5 minutes to remove any limescale build up.
4. Rinse off the valve in a separate container of clean water. Dry and push a small amount of silicone grease around the ceramic discs.
5. Using 2 small drops of super glue stick a thin 1/2 inch rubber/fibre washer (the size you find in a shower hose) to the end of the valve itself.
6. Refit the valve fully into the tap body
7. Turn the water supply back on.

The theory is that the new washer padding on the end of the valve pushes the ceramic discs together within the valve. Thus preventing that irritating drip of water from passing through.

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