Rake out and Re-grout

Rake out and Re-grout. It is like Teeth Whitening for your Tiles

As us Brits are continually reminded by American TV our once lovely pearly whites have suffered from coffee/tea drinking, cigarette smoking, cola gulping, red wine slurping, curry munching, dentist phobia, inability to use dental floss ways. Following years of this most enjoyable abuse they are left more yellow than pearly. Luckily for us all teeth whitening services are offered on almost every high street and dentists are always willing to grind down your own teeth and stick on some lovely new veneers. So if you wish to turn your nose up at the stereotype of a yellow toothed pom then simply take an hour out of your day to get the years of discolouration stripped away and smile like a yank while you enjoy your next murg masala and bottle of red.

The grout between your bathroom and kitchen tiles suffers a similar discolouration effect as your teeth. After some years of soap, lime-scale and condensation abuse the once pristine tiled bathroom wall starts exhibiting a more yellowish hue between the tiles or even worse a network of mould and mildew.

Fear not, all is not lost. There are years of pristine left in those tiles. The answer is to get rid of the stains. Using an oscillating multi tool fitted with a diamond coated blade we grind away all the old discoloured grout from between the tiles. Once all the offensive mouldy yellow grout is removed we apply a brand new layer of fresh grout between the tiles. The end result is like teeth whitening for tiles.

Usually we combine the re-grouting service with the replacing of the silicone seal around the bath, basin and/or shower tray in order to really breathe a second life into a bathroom.

Expect the rake out and re-grout service to take 4-8 hours, depending on the area of the tiled surfaces. Resealing a bath or shower tray will add 1-2 hours to the work.

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Professional Handyman Tip - Radiator Drain Down

When fitting a replacement radiator or radiator valve, one of the trickiest parts of the operation is draining water from the radiator and adjacent pipework. This is usually done by loosening valve connections to allow water to flow out.

The problem with this is that it is difficult to control the flow of water and to prevent splashes on to carpets. Today I tried something different.

I bought a self-tapping appliance tap and connected it to the 15mm pipework just below one of the valves. This allowed me to drain the water into a suitable container with no splashes. When the flow stopped, I closed the radiator valves and disconnected the pipework. The radiator could then be removed with no risk of black water escaping from it.

The only disadvantage of this approach is the loss of an inch of pipework but there is usually some loss anyway since no two radiators are exactly the same size.

Finally, you can remove the tap from the discarded pipework and use it again.

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Tap Reseating

I have been routinely re-seating taps that require new washers, it make a huge amount of difference to the way the tap works - in extreme cases I have know the scarring of the mating flange to be so deep that no amount of pressure with a new washer will stop the tap dripping, not so with re-seating.

The tool costs about £10 and being largely plastic, is small and light enough to just lurk at the bottom of the tool box.

I personally think all handymen should carry one as part of their standard kit.

http://www.screwfix.com/p/monument-tools-tap-reseating-tool/89487

Here is the juicy bit:

Old Fashioned tap washers. These are fitted into the type of tap that you need to turn more than a ¼ turn to open and close.

They consist of a rubber disc (washer) fitted to the end of a brass screw that forms the business end inside the tap fixed to the end of the operating handle that you turn. The washer works by pressing down on the flat flange opening to the water inlet, closing off the flow of water as it does so.

Many people think that to cure a dripping tap, just needs the washer to be replaced, as the rubber degrades over time and no longer works properly. But this is often only part of the problem.

The flat flange that the washer presses against with wear gets scratched and pitted making it harder and harder to get an effective seal. If the washer alone is replaced, you still need to tighten the tap handle hard enough to deal with the other problem. 

Using a "Tap Reseating tools" it is usually very easy to clean off the surface of this flange and it can be done at the same time as changing the washer and takes very little extra time. 

Of course this process only applies to taps fitted with rubber washers. Many more modern taps are fitted with ceramic cartridges - you can easily spot the difference as the handle will only turn ¼ of a turn form full off to full on and it will come to a hard positive stop at each end of the ¼ rotation. Dripping problems from this type of tap require the whole cartridge to be replaced, which in some instance is easy and relatively cheap, in others more complex and often more expensive. The problem is that it is very hard to tell the exact type of cartridge without taking the tap apart and often need ordering from specialist suppliers, which then needs a second visit to fit. 

However there is a cheaper alternative for straight forward basin and bath taps. One tap manufacturer makes a special kit that replaces the working parts of the tap with new - which also includes the handle. Unfortunately this  does not make this a practical solution in a number of situations

In addition:

Silver Saint Stan has developed his own technique for repairing quarter-turn cartridges that have developed a drip. Stan assures me that his method has never let him down.

1. Shut off the water supply to the taps.
2. Remove the faulty 1/4 turn valve from the tap body.
3. Place the valve in a container of appliance descaler for 5 minutes to remove any limescale build up.
4. Rinse off the valve in a separate container of clean water. Dry and push a small amount of silicone grease around the ceramic discs.
5. Using 2 small drops of super glue stick a thin 1/2 inch rubber/fibre washer (the size you find in a shower hose) to the end of the valve itself.
6. Refit the valve fully into the tap body
7. Turn the water supply back on.

The theory is that the new washer padding on the end of the valve pushes the ceramic discs together within the valve. Thus preventing that irritating drip of water from passing through.

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Fitting a washbasin

You don't have to be a plumber to fit a new washbasin. You can do it on your own in just a few steps.

Instructions

Before purchasing a new washbasin, you should make a checklist of all the important dimensions. The list should include the dimensions of the old washbasin, the distance of the washbasin drain from the wall and the position of both angle valves. As a general rule, you should take accurate measurements rather than rough estimates.

It is advisable to obtain a complete installation kit from the DIY store for the installation work that will be required later. It consists of fixings, hanger bolts and collar washers for protecting the ceramic surface.

1. Shut off the main tap and/or angle valves before installation.

 

2. Insert the hanger bolts into the wall. Slide the washbasin first, then the flat washers onto the bolts and tighten the nuts firmly.

 

3. Insert the fitting with the seals into the washstand from above. Tighten the lock nut from below. 

 

4. Then connect the pipes of the fitting to the angle valves and connect the syphon.

 

5. Seal the gap between the washbasin and the wall with sanitary silicone. Once this has hardened, check again that everything is fitted tightly and is leakproof.

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The right way to saw

It is especially important to take care when sawing. We will tell you what you should pay attention to.

Instructions

Sawing is a routine job for many DIY enthusiasts. But whether sawing by hand or using power tools – it is especially important that care is taken when sawing. We will tell you what you should pay attention to.

1. The main risk of injury on sawing power tools is posed by the saw blade – both when the tool is at standstill and when it is switched on.

 

2. Protective clothing is an absolute must. Do not under any circumstances work without protective goggles and wear ear protectors when the work produces very loud noises.

 

3. There are saws for all different kinds of requirements. Choose the appropriate saw according to the following points: material (e.g. natural wood, plastic), type (e.g. hard wood, plywood), workpiece (boards or plates) and type of cut (straight or curved).

 

4. Only use the appropriate saw blades and make sure that they are in immaculate condition.

 

5. Operate the saw with both hands and hold it at the intended grip areas.

 

6Remove the saw blade after work. When using chainsaws, replace the protective cover.

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Tongue and groove systems

Whether parquet, laminate, tiles or wood beam ceilings – tongue and groove joints can be found in many areas. We will explain the advantages to you.

Instructions

The tongue and groove joint is a plug-in connection of several components. The principle: A groove is cut into a component, which a tongue with the matching shape fits into. The tongue can be a loose, separate connecting piece or part of a second component that is to be connected. Fitting a tongue and groove joint prevents two adjacent boards from shifting position and achieves a flat surface.

As a mere plug-in system, the tongue and groove joint has the advantage that edges cannot be damaged when they are put together. The enlarged surface also allows for more glue to be applied, so that the joint holds better.

Tongue and groove joints can be found in virtually all areas: What are known as click floors for parquet and laminate, as well as tiles, roller shutter boxes, wood beam ceilings and canvas blinds can be joined using this technique.

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Laying laminate and parquet

Laying wooden and laminate floors is easier than you think. You just have to pay attention to a few things.

Instructions

Wooden and laminate floors are attractive and durable alternatives to carpet. Out hints and tips make it easier to lay them than you think.

1. Before you get started: Laying parquet and laminate involves using tongues and grooves, which are glued together (the glueless version with a click system is easier). Parquet and laminate naturally expand and shrink. This is why edge joints (at least ten millimetres) must be taken into consideration.

 

2. Always lay in the direction of light. Start the first row in the left-hand corner of the room with the groove side facing the wall. To do this, first mount the spacers to the wall, so that the expansion joint is maintained. The last board of the first row usually has to be shortened. The offcut from the first row is used to start the next one.

 

3. Lay the subsequent rows of boards. If you are working without a click system, use a hammer and tapping block to join the elements together. Do the same with all of the rows except for the last one.

 

4. The width of the last row has to be adjusted to fit the form of the wall. Only then can it be glued and inserted using a pull bar.

 

5. Finally, fix everything with wooden wedges. The glue should set for at least one night before you remove the wedges.

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Drilling without dust

In this way, you can prevent drilling dust from spreading all over the entire room with simple means.

Instructions

Especially drilling produces fine dust. To ensure that it does not spread all over the entire room, there are a few safety measures that you should take before drilling.

1. Special dust extraction devices, which collect the dust during drilling, are available as accessories for impact drills.

 

2. Alternatively, you can also stick a small bag directly underneath the hole you are drilling, in order to collect the drilling dust. You should also cover the floor underneath the hole with cardboard or foil.

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The right way to wallpaper

When two people fit wallpaper, it is easier than you think. And ingrain wallpaper or fleece wallpaper are forgiving of slight inaccuracies.

Instructions

Wallpapering is easier than you think if you follow a few tips. For beginners: Use ingrain wallpaper or fleece wallpaper. They are forgiving of slight inaccuracies. And don't forget: Four hands are better than two.

1. Calculate how many rolls of wallpaper you need. To be safe, make a somewhat generous estimate, so that you can correct any slight mishaps.

2. The subsurface on which the wallpaper is to be applied should be dry, clean and flat. The work you put into stripping the old wallpaper and evening out bumps with putty will only make the result better.

3. Once the subsurface is prepared, cut the strips of wallpaper to length. Important: Add approximately ten centimetres to the required strip length. You can save time by using the first strip as a sample for all subsequent strips.

4. Mix the paste as indicated on the packet and leave it to expand. Lay the wallpaper strips with the reverse facing upwards on the trestle table. Then apply the paste from the middle to both ends generously and evenly and fold up the wallpaper strips. Only prepare a number of strips that you can hang in the next quarter of an hour, otherwise the paste will become too dry (observe manufacturer's specifications).

5. Before fitting the first strip, it is advisable to use a plumb-line, spirit level or cross-line laser level. This makes alignment easier and prevents a slanted overall result on uneven walls. Press on the wallpaper carefully and smooth it out from the middle outwards using a brush. Each of the next strips starts where the previous one ends. 

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Fitting tensioning cord systems for curtains and light fixtures

Tensioning cord systems are ideal for fitting curtains and light fixtures. To ensure that the tensioning system sits firm and secure, there are a few things you should observe.

Instructions

Tensioning cord systems are ideal for fitting curtains and light fixtures. However, simple expansion plugs are not sufficient to guarantee that the tensioning cord sits firm and secure. Use what are known as injection systems – they can easily withstand the enormous tensile forces produced during tensioning.

1. After drilling, insert a mesh sleeve into the drilled hole.

2. Now inject the grout from the cartridge into the drilled hole by turning it a few times. Then turn the fitting part, e.g. a threaded bolt, into the filling.

3. Leave the mixture to harden. After approximately an hour, it is as firm as concrete and completely able to bear load.

4. Now you can mount your tensioning cord and fit your curtains or light fixtures.

 

Fitting a sink

The range of sinks is enormous. However, once you have chosen one, the rest is no problem at all.

Instructions

The range of sinks is enormous. At least the available water connections save you having to choose the basic size of the sink and the arrangement of the drainboard. The subsequent installation is then a piece of cake.

1. The sink is normally inserted directly into the work surface – ideally before the top is fitted because this makes the following steps easier. The fitting also plays an important part in determining the correct position. If there is no cutout in the sink, you will have to saw another hole in the worktop.

2. Place the sink upside down in position on the worktop and mark the contours. Important: Move the cutting line for the jigsaw inwards by the width of the rim. Make sure that the work surface is the right way round before you start cutting out. Drill a hole with a diameter of ten millimetres in each corner of the cutout and start the jigsaw here. Saw carefully because the worktop can easily break out at the thin positions.

3. Apply a suitable sealant (e.g. silicone) before installing the basin on the cutting surfaces. This later prevents moisture from penetrating and the worktop from swelling.

 

 

 

 

 

Whipping an old chest of drawers into shape

Turn an old chest of drawers into a wonderful showpiece!

Instructions

Have you got an old chest of drawers in the attic – but it would be a shame to throw the old thing away? Turn it into a wonderful showpiece!

1

Put rubber gloves on and protect your mouth and nose using a breathing mask. Apply the paint remover using a wide paintbrush. Leave it to soak in for about half an hour. It is best to remove the paint outdoors or to take the chest of drawers to a commercial paint stripping service.

2

Push off the softened paint using a scraper. Repeat this process until the wooden structure is uncovered. Tip: If the chest of drawers has slats with decorated or profiled surfaces, it is better to use a clean wire brush or steel wool (but never on oak wood!) instead of a scraper.

3

Now sand down the chest of drawers using a multifunction sander.

4

Then thoroughly remove dust and apply a wood preservative.

5

Once it has dried, coat the chest of drawers with wood varnish or paint (always in the direction of the grain). Leave it to dry again and then apply a second coat.

 

 

The basics of wood joints

Even solidly built utility furniture seldom lasts for a lifetime because it is constantly being used. Any repair work on wooden furniture begins with the stabilising of joints, frames and stands.

Instructions

Even solidly built utility furniture seldom lasts for a lifetime because it is constantly being used. Any repair work on wooden furniture begins with the stabilising of joints, frames and stands.

There are three different types of wood joints for connecting workpiece parts together: material closure (e.g. glued), force closure (e.g. bolted, nailed, wedged) and form closure (e.g. slotted, dowelled, pinned).

Wood works – even in board form. This must be taken into consideration for all joints, in particular those made of solid wood. Wooden parts can be joined together in a detachable or undetachable manner. Detachable joints use appropriate fittings to hold the individual elements together. Undetachable joints are always made with an adhesive and can – as long as they do not become loose of their own accord over time – only be undone by being destroyed.

The most common joints are form closure joints. Here is a selection:

Blunt, dowelled joints are very commonly used in furniture manufacture. These joints are made by drilling in dowels and are extremely durable. However, they are difficult to produce – as is the case with the extremely sturdy corner joints with biscuit dowels. This is why corners are also often joined together using tongue and groove joints.

The overlap is the simplest corner joint used in frame making. It is made by cutting out half of the wood thickness from each part of the workpieces that are to be joined; the workpieces are then glued together. However, this joint is not particularly resilient. For this reason, they should be additionally secured using screws or pins.

The mortise and tenon joint is particularly suitable for producing window and furniture frames. The upright frame parts are normally given slots, the horizontal parts are given tenons. Double tenons are common in thick wooden frames.

Dovetailing is multiple interlocking of straight or wedge-shaped tenons, also called dovetails. This type of joint is used for solid wood because the joined parts can expand or shrink unhindered without losing their shape. The dovetail joint is also a form of visual ornamentation.

 

Replacing cracked floor tiles

A little tip in advance: Get yourself a small supply of spare tiles when you purchase the tiles (especially when they are on special offer) because exactly the same tile is not always available later at retail outlets.

Instructions

1

Carefully knock out the old tile from the middle to the edges with a hammer and chisel. Then completely remove the adhesive residues and grout. Using an electric scraper is a proven method of doing this. Now the surface is cleaned and new tile adhesive is applied using a small notched trowel.

2

Press the new tile into the adhesive bed and line it up. After the specified drying time, grout the joints and leave them to dry. Finally, remove the remaining grout with a damp sponge – done!

The finishing touch: To make replaced joints look "old", simply rub some dirt into the joints until they are roughly the same colour as the neighbouring joints.

 

How to fix a dripping tap

Taps are generally designed with one of three types of valve, so begin by identifying which kind you are dealing with. First, traditional designs use rubber washers on the end of a compression valve inside the tap. Second, the more modern design has a washer mechanism in the form of a ceramic disc that is part of the valve inside the tap. Third, there is the ceramic cartridge, which operates in a similar way to a ceramic disc except that it is designed for single monobloc taps (ie the ones where a single handle controls both flow and temperature). For options one and two simply turn the tap – if it is possible to rotate the handle through one or more turns, it is most likely a rubber washer design. If the handle only rotates through a quarter of a turn, it will be ceramic disc design.

You will need

1. • Screwdrivers (slot head and Phillips, large and small)
2. • Slip-joint pliers
3. • Adjustable spanner
4. • Cloth
5. • New washer, or ceramic disc valve, or ceramic cartridge - depending on tap type

Before you start
Make sure the tap is turned off at the isolation valve(s), normally situated on the supply pipes below the sink. Use a slot-head screwdriver to turn the screw slot from being aligned with the pipe direction to being across it – alternatively, there may be a handle, in which case shut it off. Turn on the tap to remove residual water from the top section of the pipe. If you don't have isolation valves like these, turn the water off at stop-valves further down the pipes – this can be the time to call in a plumber if you cannot locate these.
Remove the tap handle
You need to access the screw inside the handle that keeps it in place. Look for a small screw to undo on the tap head, or you may simply need to flip off the tap lid with a slot-head screwdriver, or it may simply unscrew by hand, or with the help of an adjustable spanner. There are many different designs, but some simple detective work will reveal the right option.
Unscrew the tap head, retaining the screw, and set it to one side – then lift off the tap head. Unscrew the shroud part of the tap (if it has one) by hand, or use slip-joint pliers to grip around the shroud and loosen it off. Use a cloth around the shroud so that the pliers don't scratch its surface.
With the valve now exposed, use an adjustable spanner to grip the nut section at the base of the valve, just where it joins the main tap body. Position the slip‑joint pliers (with a cloth) on the main tap body to hold it firmly in position, and then undo the valve with the adjustable spanner.
Replacing the washer
Once loosened, unscrew the valve by hand. If it is a ceramic disc valve, you must replace the whole thing with a new one.
If it is a valve with a rubber washer, flick off the washer with the end of a slot‑head screwdriver. Alternatively, some designs may require you to undo a small nut or screw to release the washer. Then simply fit a new one. Reassemble the tap, turn on the water and check that the drip is fixed, and that there are no leaks in the supply pipe.
For the ceramic cartridge design of tap, follow the instructions above to remove the cartridge. However, there are many different designs of cartridge, so you may need to order a replacement.

Wallpapering Tips

A feature wall will usually require two rolls of paper, but make sure they’re from the same batch. However, to be safe, you could buy three rolls from the same batch, ensuring it’s OK to return one if it’s not needed.
If there is a large repeat pattern, say every 800mm, you could lose around 1m a length and may require another roll, and exact colour matching is not likely between batches.
Next, lightly sand the wall to remove blemishes, and make sure the wall is an even light colour, as strong colours can show through the paper.
Mark a straight line from ceiling to skirting using either a plumb line or spirit level. With the pattern the correct way up, hang the dry paper down the wall and make a fold where it meets the floor.
Once the paper is on the table, cut it along the fold, read the instructions for the soaking time and paste the paper using a ready-mix paste.
Fold the paper back on itself concertina-style so pasted sides touch pasted sides.
Hang the paper down the pencil line and smooth it with a paper spreader to ensure all bubbles are removed. Make sure to wipe off any paste from the good surface. Trim the paper at the top and bottom and move on to the next length.

Remembering work safety

Although DIY is fun, it also poses risks. But thankfully they can be minimised.

Instructions

DIY enthusiasts basically need the same protection as professional tradesmen. This includes protective goggles and gloves, protective masks and ear protectors.

Protecting eyes and hands: Dust, sprays, and flying chips are not uncommon in DIY work – which is why you should protect your eyes. Standard protective goggles are usually sufficient.

When performing work like sawing, sanding or chiselling, you should not underestimate the risk of possible hand injuries caused by chips. Here, full protection is only offered by special protective gloves. You should not wear any gloves when using hand-held circular saws, belt sanders and drills because they could get caught in the rotating tools.

Don't forget breathing protection: When drilling, sawing, sanding, planing or routing, you should protect your respiratory tract with a disposable protective mask – even better with a fine dust mask. When dealing with insulation wool or solvent-based paints and varnishes, masks with activated carbon filters provide the best protection.

Avoid noise exposure: Do not underestimate the strain put on your ears when drilling, sawing, sanding, etc. Ear plugs are sufficient for sporadic use. If you frequently work with noise-intensive power tools, it is advisable to use ear muffs.

Wear the right clothes: They should be comfortable, tight-fitting and flameproof. Watches and jewellery are dangerous and should be taken off before you begin with the work.

For your own safety, tie up long hair to prevent it getting caught up in running machines.

Sanding down wooden floors

Given the right treatment, old wooden floors and worn-down parquet can be made to shine like new.

Instructions

1

Remove all furniture, carpets and curtains from the room. Use a small chisel to detach the skirting boards, and knock in any protruding nail heads. Then vacuum clean the floor thoroughly.

2

If you only have to remove shoe marks and give the floor a consistent colour, all that is necessary is reconditioning. However, if the old coating has to be completely removed, then several sanding runs are required.

3

Reconditioning: The damaged coat of varnish has to be removed or matt sanded, in order to create a bond with the new varnish. It is sufficient if you sand over the parquet once with an orbital sander.

4

Sanding: Depending on the condition of the surface, two to four sanding runs with a sanding machine are required. Important: Sand mosaic parquet and square parquet diagonally across the grain; floorboard flooring should be sanded parallel to the run of the floorboards. Do not stop or change direction during sanding. Sand the corners and edges of a room before the last sanding run using edge and corner sanding machines. To do this, use a disc with a grit of 40 and for the subsequent fine sanding use a disc with a grit of 100.

5

Touch up cracks and joints before the last sanding run using joint filler. Then clean the floor very thoroughly

6

Sealing: Apply the sealing varnish in uniform strokes. Work away from the light source, so that you recognise any flaws. After approximately two hours, it is advisable to perform intermediate sanding by hand or using a hand sander with a grit of 120. Then carefully clean the floor again. The second coat of varnish can now be applied and should be left to dry for approximately eight to twelve hours.

Fitting folding doors

Especially in small homes it is important to make maximum use of every space. Folding doors are particularly space-saving – and easy to install.

Instructions

Especially in small homes it is important to make maximum use of every space. Folding doors are particularly suitable for partitioning off a walk-in wardrobe or closing off an office. It is easier to fit them than you think.

1

First of all, you measure the dimensions specified in the instructions at the frames or inner sides of the doors and mark them. Drill the holes at the marks.

2

Now mount the individual clips for the slide and counter rails.

3

Apply the supplied lubricant to the sliders, so that the door is easy to open and close later. Then slide both door halves into the slide rails.

4

Align the slide rail to the fitted doors in the door frame.

5

Attach the slide rail to the pre-mounted clips.

6

Saw a cutout for the skirting on both counter rails, which are fitted vertically on the door frame.

7

Finally, both counter rails are fitted to the mounting clips and both wings of the door are inserted into the rails.

8

Then fit the two front panels on both the right and left of the slide rail. The mounting clips, onto which the front panels are simply attached, are also used here.

9

Finally, insert the door handles into the pre-drilled holes on both wings of the door and screw them tight.

A quick guide to fixings

The range of fixings is nearly as big as the range of nails. We will give you an overview.

Instructions

There is a wide range of fixings to choose from. They are available in short, ribbed or spiral versions. But what is each fixing suitable for?

To select the right fixing, the building material in which the fixing is intended to bear load must be taken into consideration. A distinction is made here between wood, the various types of concrete, dense masonry walls (limestone, brick, clinker), porous walls (porous concrete, aerated concrete, pumice concrete) and board materials.

The types of fastening are distinguished according to the type of force transmission into the structure – these being friction closure, form closure and material closure.

Plastic fixings are most commonly used for friction closure. The most simple type is the classical expansion plug, which holds best in concrete and masonry made of solid stone. The expansion part of the plug is pressed against wall of the drill hole; the friction created by this holds the plug in the building material.

With form closure, the fixing folds open in the cavity of the building material. In other words, it adopts the shape of the cavity in the building material. These kinds of fixings are particularly suitable for fitting in hollow core bricks or board materials. They are available in different versions, e.g. as all-purpose or cavity fixings.

The third type of anchorage is material closure. The fixing is literally glued to the wall material, e.g. by means of mortar or a reaction resin. This type of anchorage is suitable for fittings, which are very close to the edge, in all materials.

The drilling diameter for a fixing joint is usually stated on the packaging by the manufacturer. Normally, the diameter of the drilled hole should match that of the fixing. The hole also has to be deep enough to hold the fixing and screw. After drilling, you have to remove the drilling dust from the hole because otherwise the fixing will not hold very well.

There are two common types of fixing installation. The best-known type is pre-insertion mounting: the fixing is inserted into the drilled hole until it is flush with the wall. The object that is being fitted is then secured with a screw. With through-insertion mounting, the fixing is inserted through the object that is being fitted and into the drilled hole. This method makes it easier to, for example, fit objects with several fastening points.

 

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A guide to drill bits – the right drill bit for any occasion

Instructions

You have to choose different drill bits and drilling methods depending on the material you want to work on. Here you will find out what each drill bit is suitable for.

Drilling in metal

HSS drill bits with a partially ground tip are suitable for non-ferrous metals. These include aluminium, copper, brass, zinc, iron and non-alloyed steel. Drill bits made of cobalt-alloyed High Speed Steel (HSS-E) or even drill bits with titanium coating are required for stainless steel. They are more expensive than normal HSS drill bits but they enable drilling in special steel without a high level of drill bit wear.

Drilling in wood

Brad point drill bits have a long centring tip with two pre-cutting spurs. These spurs score the wood fibres; the internal cutting edges then cut them out cleanly. Forstner drill bits, hardware drill bits or hinge cutting bits are usually used for larger drill bit diameters; there are auger bits for deep holes in wood.

Drilling in concrete

Masonry made of clinker, brick or concrete requires an impact drill or a rotary hammer to be used. However, if the wall consists of perforated stones with porous material, only rotary drilling is performed (i.e. without impact). The same applies to porous bricks and boarded walls. A masonry drill bit is required for all work in these materials. It has soldered-in tungsten-carbide plates on the drill bit tip.