How to fix a dripping tap

Taps are generally designed with one of three types of valve, so begin by identifying which kind you are dealing with. First, traditional designs use rubber washers on the end of a compression valve inside the tap. Second, the more modern design has a washer mechanism in the form of a ceramic disc that is part of the valve inside the tap. Third, there is the ceramic cartridge, which operates in a similar way to a ceramic disc except that it is designed for single monobloc taps (ie the ones where a single handle controls both flow and temperature). For options one and two simply turn the tap – if it is possible to rotate the handle through one or more turns, it is most likely a rubber washer design. If the handle only rotates through a quarter of a turn, it will be ceramic disc design.

You will need

1. • Screwdrivers (slot head and Phillips, large and small)
2. • Slip-joint pliers
3. • Adjustable spanner
4. • Cloth
5. • New washer, or ceramic disc valve, or ceramic cartridge - depending on tap type

Before you start
Make sure the tap is turned off at the isolation valve(s), normally situated on the supply pipes below the sink. Use a slot-head screwdriver to turn the screw slot from being aligned with the pipe direction to being across it – alternatively, there may be a handle, in which case shut it off. Turn on the tap to remove residual water from the top section of the pipe. If you don't have isolation valves like these, turn the water off at stop-valves further down the pipes – this can be the time to call in a plumber if you cannot locate these.
Remove the tap handle
You need to access the screw inside the handle that keeps it in place. Look for a small screw to undo on the tap head, or you may simply need to flip off the tap lid with a slot-head screwdriver, or it may simply unscrew by hand, or with the help of an adjustable spanner. There are many different designs, but some simple detective work will reveal the right option.
Unscrew the tap head, retaining the screw, and set it to one side – then lift off the tap head. Unscrew the shroud part of the tap (if it has one) by hand, or use slip-joint pliers to grip around the shroud and loosen it off. Use a cloth around the shroud so that the pliers don't scratch its surface.
With the valve now exposed, use an adjustable spanner to grip the nut section at the base of the valve, just where it joins the main tap body. Position the slip‑joint pliers (with a cloth) on the main tap body to hold it firmly in position, and then undo the valve with the adjustable spanner.
Replacing the washer
Once loosened, unscrew the valve by hand. If it is a ceramic disc valve, you must replace the whole thing with a new one.
If it is a valve with a rubber washer, flick off the washer with the end of a slot‑head screwdriver. Alternatively, some designs may require you to undo a small nut or screw to release the washer. Then simply fit a new one. Reassemble the tap, turn on the water and check that the drip is fixed, and that there are no leaks in the supply pipe.
For the ceramic cartridge design of tap, follow the instructions above to remove the cartridge. However, there are many different designs of cartridge, so you may need to order a replacement.

Wallpapering Tips

A feature wall will usually require two rolls of paper, but make sure they’re from the same batch. However, to be safe, you could buy three rolls from the same batch, ensuring it’s OK to return one if it’s not needed.
If there is a large repeat pattern, say every 800mm, you could lose around 1m a length and may require another roll, and exact colour matching is not likely between batches.
Next, lightly sand the wall to remove blemishes, and make sure the wall is an even light colour, as strong colours can show through the paper.
Mark a straight line from ceiling to skirting using either a plumb line or spirit level. With the pattern the correct way up, hang the dry paper down the wall and make a fold where it meets the floor.
Once the paper is on the table, cut it along the fold, read the instructions for the soaking time and paste the paper using a ready-mix paste.
Fold the paper back on itself concertina-style so pasted sides touch pasted sides.
Hang the paper down the pencil line and smooth it with a paper spreader to ensure all bubbles are removed. Make sure to wipe off any paste from the good surface. Trim the paper at the top and bottom and move on to the next length.

Remembering work safety

Although DIY is fun, it also poses risks. But thankfully they can be minimised.

Instructions

DIY enthusiasts basically need the same protection as professional tradesmen. This includes protective goggles and gloves, protective masks and ear protectors.

Protecting eyes and hands: Dust, sprays, and flying chips are not uncommon in DIY work – which is why you should protect your eyes. Standard protective goggles are usually sufficient.

When performing work like sawing, sanding or chiselling, you should not underestimate the risk of possible hand injuries caused by chips. Here, full protection is only offered by special protective gloves. You should not wear any gloves when using hand-held circular saws, belt sanders and drills because they could get caught in the rotating tools.

Don't forget breathing protection: When drilling, sawing, sanding, planing or routing, you should protect your respiratory tract with a disposable protective mask – even better with a fine dust mask. When dealing with insulation wool or solvent-based paints and varnishes, masks with activated carbon filters provide the best protection.

Avoid noise exposure: Do not underestimate the strain put on your ears when drilling, sawing, sanding, etc. Ear plugs are sufficient for sporadic use. If you frequently work with noise-intensive power tools, it is advisable to use ear muffs.

Wear the right clothes: They should be comfortable, tight-fitting and flameproof. Watches and jewellery are dangerous and should be taken off before you begin with the work.

For your own safety, tie up long hair to prevent it getting caught up in running machines.

Sanding down wooden floors

Given the right treatment, old wooden floors and worn-down parquet can be made to shine like new.

Instructions

1

Remove all furniture, carpets and curtains from the room. Use a small chisel to detach the skirting boards, and knock in any protruding nail heads. Then vacuum clean the floor thoroughly.

2

If you only have to remove shoe marks and give the floor a consistent colour, all that is necessary is reconditioning. However, if the old coating has to be completely removed, then several sanding runs are required.

3

Reconditioning: The damaged coat of varnish has to be removed or matt sanded, in order to create a bond with the new varnish. It is sufficient if you sand over the parquet once with an orbital sander.

4

Sanding: Depending on the condition of the surface, two to four sanding runs with a sanding machine are required. Important: Sand mosaic parquet and square parquet diagonally across the grain; floorboard flooring should be sanded parallel to the run of the floorboards. Do not stop or change direction during sanding. Sand the corners and edges of a room before the last sanding run using edge and corner sanding machines. To do this, use a disc with a grit of 40 and for the subsequent fine sanding use a disc with a grit of 100.

5

Touch up cracks and joints before the last sanding run using joint filler. Then clean the floor very thoroughly

6

Sealing: Apply the sealing varnish in uniform strokes. Work away from the light source, so that you recognise any flaws. After approximately two hours, it is advisable to perform intermediate sanding by hand or using a hand sander with a grit of 120. Then carefully clean the floor again. The second coat of varnish can now be applied and should be left to dry for approximately eight to twelve hours.

Fitting folding doors

Especially in small homes it is important to make maximum use of every space. Folding doors are particularly space-saving – and easy to install.

Instructions

Especially in small homes it is important to make maximum use of every space. Folding doors are particularly suitable for partitioning off a walk-in wardrobe or closing off an office. It is easier to fit them than you think.

1

First of all, you measure the dimensions specified in the instructions at the frames or inner sides of the doors and mark them. Drill the holes at the marks.

2

Now mount the individual clips for the slide and counter rails.

3

Apply the supplied lubricant to the sliders, so that the door is easy to open and close later. Then slide both door halves into the slide rails.

4

Align the slide rail to the fitted doors in the door frame.

5

Attach the slide rail to the pre-mounted clips.

6

Saw a cutout for the skirting on both counter rails, which are fitted vertically on the door frame.

7

Finally, both counter rails are fitted to the mounting clips and both wings of the door are inserted into the rails.

8

Then fit the two front panels on both the right and left of the slide rail. The mounting clips, onto which the front panels are simply attached, are also used here.

9

Finally, insert the door handles into the pre-drilled holes on both wings of the door and screw them tight.

A quick guide to fixings

The range of fixings is nearly as big as the range of nails. We will give you an overview.

Instructions

There is a wide range of fixings to choose from. They are available in short, ribbed or spiral versions. But what is each fixing suitable for?

To select the right fixing, the building material in which the fixing is intended to bear load must be taken into consideration. A distinction is made here between wood, the various types of concrete, dense masonry walls (limestone, brick, clinker), porous walls (porous concrete, aerated concrete, pumice concrete) and board materials.

The types of fastening are distinguished according to the type of force transmission into the structure – these being friction closure, form closure and material closure.

Plastic fixings are most commonly used for friction closure. The most simple type is the classical expansion plug, which holds best in concrete and masonry made of solid stone. The expansion part of the plug is pressed against wall of the drill hole; the friction created by this holds the plug in the building material.

With form closure, the fixing folds open in the cavity of the building material. In other words, it adopts the shape of the cavity in the building material. These kinds of fixings are particularly suitable for fitting in hollow core bricks or board materials. They are available in different versions, e.g. as all-purpose or cavity fixings.

The third type of anchorage is material closure. The fixing is literally glued to the wall material, e.g. by means of mortar or a reaction resin. This type of anchorage is suitable for fittings, which are very close to the edge, in all materials.

The drilling diameter for a fixing joint is usually stated on the packaging by the manufacturer. Normally, the diameter of the drilled hole should match that of the fixing. The hole also has to be deep enough to hold the fixing and screw. After drilling, you have to remove the drilling dust from the hole because otherwise the fixing will not hold very well.

There are two common types of fixing installation. The best-known type is pre-insertion mounting: the fixing is inserted into the drilled hole until it is flush with the wall. The object that is being fitted is then secured with a screw. With through-insertion mounting, the fixing is inserted through the object that is being fitted and into the drilled hole. This method makes it easier to, for example, fit objects with several fastening points.

 

www.handymansolutions.uk.com

A guide to drill bits – the right drill bit for any occasion

Instructions

You have to choose different drill bits and drilling methods depending on the material you want to work on. Here you will find out what each drill bit is suitable for.

Drilling in metal

HSS drill bits with a partially ground tip are suitable for non-ferrous metals. These include aluminium, copper, brass, zinc, iron and non-alloyed steel. Drill bits made of cobalt-alloyed High Speed Steel (HSS-E) or even drill bits with titanium coating are required for stainless steel. They are more expensive than normal HSS drill bits but they enable drilling in special steel without a high level of drill bit wear.

Drilling in wood

Brad point drill bits have a long centring tip with two pre-cutting spurs. These spurs score the wood fibres; the internal cutting edges then cut them out cleanly. Forstner drill bits, hardware drill bits or hinge cutting bits are usually used for larger drill bit diameters; there are auger bits for deep holes in wood.

Drilling in concrete

Masonry made of clinker, brick or concrete requires an impact drill or a rotary hammer to be used. However, if the wall consists of perforated stones with porous material, only rotary drilling is performed (i.e. without impact). The same applies to porous bricks and boarded walls. A masonry drill bit is required for all work in these materials. It has soldered-in tungsten-carbide plates on the drill bit tip.